Morocco Part 2: Souq Chic

Morocco in May is hot - when we were there temperatures climbed to 40 degrees but there's plenty to do that helps you to escape the heat and also makes the city the perfect mini break getaway.

                 

Marrakech is probably most famous for its souqs. When I arrived back, I had dinner with an old friend who's first question was: 'so did you get a leather bag, some spices and a rug?' - the answer was no (apart from a little Ras El Hamut, which Flo works magic with). I only picked up a couple of trinkets whilst I was there, but the souqs are a wonderful experience whether you're shopping or not.      

The old medina souk is a haggler's playground: narrow alleyways overflowing with exotic treasures. You can wander through this rabbit warren for hours safe from the sun's heat which zigzags its way through overhanging wooden slats  occasionally - a reminder of how hot it will be when you emerge into a square. My favourite bits were far away from the main square, where fewer tourists mean you get more (let's call it 'customer service') and also far better prices. The rules of haggling are thus: offer 1/4 or 1/3 of the asking price depending on the ware - it's best to not offend an antique rug seller. Then gradually barter your way towards 1/2 or 2/3. If they look like they're not budging then walk away and count to 10. They usually come running.

In the evenings, the main market square comes to life. The snake charmers and monkey men come out alongside storytellers crouched around fires. The largest awning only food market is located at one end of the square where you can grab steaming plates of unknown ingredients and camp out to people watch. It's magical.

For a sit down drink and food, near  the old Medina, there's a rather lovely bar, restaurant called Cafe Arab. This rooftop recluse serves alcohol too (shhh) so it provides the perfect breezy watering hole between activities. The menu is simple and serves both Moroccan and Italian food. It's over priced for Kesh but worth it - I think - for the view.

I took advantage of the sunshine to check out my purchase: the only bangles that I've tried on that fit my wrists. Could not have been more pleas

  

The absolute go to place in Marrakech has to be the Majorelle Gardens, which have been owned by Yves Saint Laurent and family since the 80s and can be found just outside of the Medina Walls. We got up early one morning and made the dusty half hour walk out to see them. The gardens are beautiful though they get crowded so go early. The are full of exotic plants and cacti. 

Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech Flo and Elle Morocco Marrakech Travel Flo and Elle Flo and Elle Souks What to do in Marrakech Cafe Arab Majorelle Gardens Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Garden Marrakech

Morocco Part 1: Medina Living

Last week I flew out to Marrakech with a big gaggle of friends to attend a 2 day wedding celebration. Not people to do anything by halves, we decided to hire a villa in Essaouira after the main event, which the bride and groom joined us in. Essentially, I've just come back from my first honeymoon (one of many to come I'm sure...). For now, this is where we stayed and how we lived in Marrakech. I absolutely loved everything about our little marradise, where events seemed to pass through a sepia soft-focus lens as we drifted in and out of markets into spas and back into the recluse of refreshingly cool riads. 

We stayed in two separate riads in Marrakech, both in the Medina (the old town). Here's our little alleyway down to the first.

A riad (if you don't know) is the name of the building structure most common in Morocco. It means that the building has an open atrium in the centre to let in a pool of light and air without any of the heat of the sun. The many floors are arrived at by narrow mahogany staircases which lead eventually onto open rooftop.

Riad Rita is owned by the charming Ahmed (details here). He was so helpful and kind, throughout our stay. When I go back I'm guaranteed to head straight to his at £180 for a double room for three nights. The riad was light and spacious, with an external courtyard as well as the signature open top atrium. Our room had no airconditioning, but was the coolest (in temperature), most tranquil space to rest our sore heads after two nights of wedding parties. 

Not to mention, the breakfast setting where we were served steaming mugs of hot coffee to accompany the Moroccan traditional breakfast of oven baked flatbread dripping in honey. Look what a happy bunny I was.

So we arrived the day before the festivities kicked off and went straight to the Henna Cafe (also in the Medina) to get ourselves appropriately decorated as tradition requires. We chose our patterns from a book whilst a little heady from too much Moroccan mint tea (they make theirs with gunpowder green tea, fresh mint and a whole lotta sugar).

The second riad we stayed in belongs to Livvy's aunt, so sadly you can't stay there. It was absolutely beautiful though and a brilliant example of European meets Moroccan interior design. It has been featured in a lot of design magazines in the past for its gorgeous stained glass features and imported portico.

One of the loveliest things about Marrakech is the view over the rooftops that you can get from almost any vantage point in the city. There's something so soothing about looking out at dusk, when you can hear the clatter of saucepans in neighbouring riads, babies crying and cats and dogs in the streets. The call to prayer also happens around this time, so we would go onto the rooftop and wait in anticipation for the haunting sound to fill the streets as the sun faded. 

More on what to do and see in Marrakech to follow.  

The best sushi in London: Asakusa

A few weeks ago I had dinner at Nobu, Mayfair on a Tuesday. That Thursday, I also ate at Asakusa: tiny tucked away Japanese restaurant in Mornington Crescent. The difference in quality, taste and price was incredible but quite the reverse of who you'd expect to come out on top. Don't get me wrong, I'm not doing Nobu down, but Asakusa blows it entirely out of the water. This is definitively the best sushi in London and a lovely little North London secret for those in the know.

                  

We started with some hot sake chosen from an extensive menu (they also have a sake taster menu if you want to learn more about sake than whether you prefer it hot or cold). Then we cleansed our palettes with some seaweed salad and an assortment of Japanese pickles. 

On to the sushi. Don't forget to check their specials menu for more unusual sushi options. We had mackrel, tuna and a beautifully delicate sea bass. The wasabi they use melts into the soy with no effort, the fish arrives gleaming on a bed of vegetables, seaweed and pink ginger. Everything is presented simply but to perfection. 

For our next course, we had a grilled mackerel with grated radish. The black cod is also fantastic and the best value I've ever seen in London but we didn't get a picture this time around, as we arrived at 10.30 so they had run out. We finished up with spicy prawn inside out rolls and green tea. The sushi rice is fluffy, the prawns delicate and the sauce adds a tingle. 

As it was late, our night cap was a green tea otherwise we would have had a cheeky plum wine. 

A friend of mine told me that the Asakusa chef is Michellin Starred but prefers to run his own, smaller, more authentic restaurant. This attitude is reflected in the family atmosphere, interesting conversations overheard in corners and a thoroughfare of Japanese regulars coming through the door. You step inside and immediately feel at ease. 

Better than Nobu. Go now before the word gets out.
Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog Asakusa Mornington Crescent best sushi in London best sushi in London Flo and Elle London blog 

Rock and rolling ramen: Bone Daddies

This deliciously dark Soho door comes with a health warning: if you're anything like me, you'll need to roll (or even be rolled) home afterwards. I've always thought of Ramen as being filling, warming but light nonetheless. Not at Bone Daddies. This Ramen is serious. It's also seriously good so don't be put off, just go when you're hungry.

The starters were amazing, especially the fried sesame, chillied guinea fowl (a daily special, so it may not be there when you go). The chefs at the big B.D's don't stick to pure Ramen cuisine, and instead draw on other influences and flavours. We washed our pimientos (de Padron) and chicken (de Tennasee) down with a full Sake list (de Japan). The combination felt indulgent and dirty - exactly what you want from a Soho establishment, when you've already had a few too many cocktails that evening, as we had.

Now to the Ramen. The Tantamen is the killer - peanut broth, pork meat and pork mince, not to mention the floating eggs. I was initially suspicious of the egg in the broth, but it's actually incredibly good.  The peanut broth is spicy and rich and arrives steaming at the table. Bone Daddies is also incredibly well priced. Menu here, we spent around £20 per head to share starters have a beer, a ramen and some sake. Not bad at all.

Go hungry, go late and be prepared to queue but hopefully not for too long - and you can get a beer in whilst you wait.

 Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soho  Bone Daddies soho review flo and elle london blog flo and elle ramen soh